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GOOGLE OPPRESSION
Obj: Endurance, Sport-Specific Strength, Power
Training:
(1) Trail Run 1.5 Hours
***Change mode to Rock Gym***
(2) 10 Rounds
5x Pull ups every 30 seconds
(3) 10 Rounds
1x Auto-Belay up climb, carrying 25# Back pack
then Drop Pack, and re-climb immediately without
400 hand movements total
(4) 15 Rounds
1x Bouldering Problem every 40 seconds, rest 2 min
after rounds 5 and 10.
Comments:
I RECEIVED THE FOLLOWING E-MAIL QUESTION FROM NATE:
Great site. Thanks for all the great ideas. I try to incorporate them into my training whenever possible.
Do you have any athletes training for harder single pitch routes/red points, and if so what changes do you make to the
workouts? Do your athletes have to give-up other parts of the workout to increase their red point grade? I try to to get
a good balance in my workouts, but some of the routes I'm working at require a good deal of endurance and the ability to make
moves in the V6-V8 range. Any thoughts on this? (eat less and pull more plastic right? :-) It puts me in a tough spot as
I actually like a climbing specific training, but I feel that the usual climbers workout leaves me lacking in overall fitness.
Also, I wanted to recommend a climbing workout that I really enjoy doing. Pick a number (say 50) every boulder problem
you do is equal in points to the grade and your looking to add it up to 50. So a V3 gets you 3 points. It scales well , as
you get pumped your left climbing V1s to get to 50. Do it for time to get you breathing hard. The other variation I like
is setting a time limit (say 30 minutes) and see how many points you can rack-up.
Thanks for all the good beta. I'm looking to attend your seminar here in Portland in the fall. Have fun!
-Nate
COMMENTS/ANSWER:
Nate -
I've got several 5.12 climbers and at least one 5.13 climber training here - but they are not focused on their rock climbing
now. Rather, they are Exum guides, and/or mountaineers, more interested in big peaks, so no, I don't have any athletes focused
on one hard rock climbing route.
In general, you need to get more and more sport specific during this, the rock climbing season. This means less time in
the barbell gym, and more training time and practice time in the rock gym - pulling plastic. Nothing you can do in the barbell
gym will give you the sport specific work you can get from the rock gym. If you're serious about your rock climbing right
now, cut down your gym training to two, or even one time/week, and focus on building strength/endurance and technical skill
in the rock gym.
Yes, this sport specific focus will cost you general fitness. But, focussing on general fitness, means you won't reach
your genetic potential as a rock climber. There's a cost to everything. Sorry.
Try not to think of it this way. Remember, your barbell gym training should complement and supplement your sport specific
training. They work together. When the snow flies, focus more on the barbell gym stuff, but when it's rock climbing season,
focus on the rock. Over time, both boats will raise together.
Great idea on the "points" for the bouldering problems. I'll work with this! Thanks!
- Rob
I RECEIVED THE FOLLOWING QUESTION FROM DAVE:
I enjoy checking out you website for useful and thought provoking information. I was hoping to tap you for free advice.
In your comments about today's workout, you talked about the advice you give foks that are heading out there on vacation.
That's particularly timely, as I'll be out there at the end of August, either to do some backpacking/climbing in the Winds,
or climbing in the Tetons (with an Exum guide). Over the past 5 years or so, I've done a fair amount of this (the Grand (in
one day), Mt. Moran, Teewinot, Buck, Gannett, Cirque of the Towers), so I've got a decent idea of what a big day in the mountains
is like, but I'm not an accomplished rock climber by any means.
I consider myself to be in pretty good shape for my age (almost 51). Sometimes I'll do Cross Fit-type workouts or I'll
try to track at least some of your workouts (equipment and not knowing some of the exercises are limitations). I live in
Dallas (no hills to speak of), but I do some stairclimbing with a weighted vest and I was gratified to see that as your primary
recommendation for folks like me. I guess my question is, what else would you recommend...in particular, for example, would
you recommend squats, lunges, deadlifts? And what about interval/HIIT training on a stairmaster or treadmill? Any thoughts
on recovery/number of workouts per week? I've been working pretty hard to get ready for August, but any tips or recommendations
you have might make my trip more enjoyable. Thanks very much for any consideration you give this. I get out to Jackson
a number of times a year ( I skied there four times last year) and someday I'd like to visit your gym and do a workout. And
again, I appreciate you site and the effort you put into it.
COMMENTS/ANSWER:
Dave -
Given your short time frame, the biggest bang for your time will be walking uphill with weight. This builds sport-specific
strength, and mode-specific cardio.
I'm not a big fan of stair masters, and understand that Dallas is vertically-challenged when it comes to landscape. So,
I'd recommend you find a big ass football stadium somewhere, and start hiking/running the bleachers.
Organize your stair training in three ways and do one session of each type each week:
Metabolic Conditioning - Shorter, more intense efforts. For example:
10 Rounds - as fast as you can
10x box jumps onto bottom bleacher
Sprint to top
5x Burpees
Jog to bottom, repeat
Power-Endurance - Longer, loaded efforts, 30-min to 1-hour, for example, Load 40# into a backpack, and do continuous hiking
(don't run) laps on a long stair/bleacher session. How many laps can you do in 30 min? How many in 45 min? How many in 1 hour?
Endurance - Unloaded, run the stairs/bleachers for 1.5 hours continuous. Keep heart rate around 80% of MHR.
Weightroom Training - I'd focus on lower body strength, midsection work and upper body strength endurance i.e.:
- heavy dead lifts and front squats
- "bunches" of Ankles-to-Bar, Weighted situps and back extensions
- High round, low rep circuits of pushups, pull ups and dips, for example, 10 rounds of 5x pull ups, 10 by dips and
15x push ups.
Rock Gym - I don't know what "rock climbing" you have planned, but if it's significant, nothing in the weightroom
can strength and condition your pulling and grip strength like time training in the rock gym. If you are going to be doing
lots of rock climbing, you'll need to cut down weight room training and do laps on the auto belay in a rock gym, or bouldering
intervals and/or traverse laps.
Weekly Schedule:
Stadium stair training - 2-3x week
Weight room/Rock gym 2x week.
- Rob Shaul
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| Michael |
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