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CLOSE TO THE RED LINE
Obj: Endurance, Sport Specific Power Endurance
Training:
(1) Trail Run 1 hour, 75-80% MHR
**** Change mode to Climbing Gym ****
(2) 10 Rounds
5x Strict Pull ups, every 30 seconds
(3) 3 Rounds, Tag Team
T1 - 10x Bouldering Problems
T2 - Laps on Traverse Wall until T1 Finished
(3) 5 Rounds
Up + Down climb easy route carrying 25# pack
1:1 Work to Rest
200 Hand Movements Total
(4) 5 Rounds
3x Sprints up climbing route
1:1 Work to Rest Ratio
300 hand movements total
Comments:
I RECEIVED THE FOLLOWING EMAIL FROM JOHN:
Hi Rob,
I read your 7/15 article on maximal load vs. strength/power endurance and I wanted to let you know that this is something
I have paid particular attention to lately. The reason it's relevant for me is that high maximal load / low strength endurance
is associated with heavier body-types like mine, and in my pursuit of lightness, understanding this relationship is very important.
First of all, as I said in my last letter, I have found immense benefit in working out the entire range of explosive power
to strength endurance at Mountain Athlete and therefore I am extremely hesitant to eliminate or significantly reduce 1RM efforts
and pure strength days. For my genes, there is something explosive in the formula that has proven to simultaneously increase
my lightness, strength, and endurance.
However, one of the workouts types where a large disparity is obvious for me between maximal load and strength endurance
is the 1RM followed by a strength endurance round with a % of 1RM element and a couple of other things. I consistently do
very well in the maximal effort, but fail to keep pace with the rest of the athletes on the strength endurance round. Even
worse, I think the failure to keep pace may compound the maximal load / strength endurance disparity by, in effect, extending
the maximal load workout into the strength endurance round-- every longer rest or extra breath I take between reps on the
% of 1RM or other exercises, the less it is an endurance round. If this is true, then I am actually spending relatively less
time doing endurance workouts, when that is my area of weakness.
I have started an experiment in my summer absence from Jackson where I ensure that I match the pace of your higher-endurance
athletes during strength endurance sessions, even if it means dropping below the specified % 1RM or lowering the weight below
my pure-strength capability on the other exercises. The hypothesis is that this will work my weakness and result in a more
optimal ratio of maximal strength to strength endurance. It has not been long enough come to any conclusion, but I did complete
my first barbell complex ending at 115# yesterday.
- John R.
ROB'S ANSWER/COMMENTS:
Not too many bigger guys train at the gym - most of my male athletes come in light, and have endurance backgrounds - but
the other big guys I have trained have performance similar to John. Strong on the max effort attempts, suffer during the power
endurance/metcon/strength endurance stuff. I do believe these other elements are trainable, and as my big guys have improved
at the endurance work, their max lifts still increased.
But it works both ways. My lighter, skinny athletes fair better at the power endurance/strength endurance stuff, but max
strength gains come hard and slow.
I RECEIVED THE FOLLOWING EMAIL FROM CRAIG:
I am 'wired' more for endurance than strength. Now, is this something that happened via being really weak until I was
in my 30's? I don't know. But I am one of those people who ran 3-5 miles a few times a week for a couple of years, moved to
the mountains, discovered trail running, and rapidly moved up to running 8-25 miles a few times a week. It was an easy transition.
Many people will not have this experience. I should add I also really can't (not that I've trained it seriously yet) run very
fast! My slow pace however really can just go on until I collapse, which will be much later than even I expect, and I should
know better by now.
The relevance here is that if I can do say, your complex as written- I can probably learn to just slaughter it as far
as strength endurance. If it's a timed thing, the only way I'll come out at the head of the class is if it just starts to
crush the stronger faster guys as the duration increases. My speed doesn't change much- it's always slow & steady. I'm
not very strong in a maximal strength sense. But I have very solid strength endurance, and can build it up very fast as well.
I would think this is pretty common with your guides.
I look at it this way: if you told me I needed to walk to Maine from where I live in Seattle with 30 or 40# on my back,
I'd say no problem. I'd like a nice backpack, please. My bunion will hurt. But it's not going to be crushing. It's not going
to be fast, either. But I know I can do it, and I really wouldn't need any training for it. I would think this is true of
a number of your guides?
Don't know if that offers anything or not-
Craig
ROB'S ANSWER/COMMENT:
Craig -
It's all well that you feel you are wired for endurance, as each of us has our natural fitness strengths. But what I sense
from your email is a complacency in this fact, and a little unwillingness to work on your weaknesses.
I've yet to hear my guides talk admiringly of a climber who is "slow but steady" in the mountains. Rather, they
admire and marvel at those alpinists who move swift and fast - guys who can climb the Grand Teton, car to car, in 6 hours
or less, or do the entire Grand Traverse in under 12 hours.
In fact, many suffer in my gym to get stronger, and faster. As I understand it, not only is speed on the rock seen as
a sign of strength, and advanced technical ability, but also safety. Less exposure = less chance of weather messing things
up.
So, even though many of these actual event are long in duration, the best alpinists are those strong, powerful and swift
enough to move very fast.
There was a time when I took pride in my own strength endurance prowess in the weightroom, and I fell into the trap of
not training my weaknesses. The result was several years of failing to try something new and grow.
So, if your strength is slow and steady, I encourage you to train your weaknesses - fast and powerful.
I RECEIVED THE FOLLOWING E-MAIL FROM TRISH:
Rob-
This weekend on Sat. we climbed a 6 pitch route in Cascade Canyon, Sun. we did some sport climbing, and then Mon. we climbed
Irene's Arete on Disappointment peak.
I led the first pitch and then the 3rd pitch which was suppose to be a 5.8 but I got off route following someone else's
gear that had been left. Anyway ended up on a very hard route and instead of down climbing and finding the right route I kept
going.
I ended up taking a huge fall about 20ft or so. Ah not going to lie it was hard to keep it together and go on, but I was
able to keep climbing and set up an anchor. Also climbing with a pack ads a different element as well, glad we've spent time
in the gym training with packs.
After reaching the summit, we could not find the obvious walk off, so decided on some sketchy down climbing. Then we rappelled
the rest of the way. After the first rappel our rope got stuck and Caleb had to climb 100 back up to get the rope, it was
totally scary and a super serious situation but we got through it, and made it back down to the bottom safely. Hiked back
to the car in the dark, taking 15hrs roundtrip.
Trad climbing is totally crazy and scary to me, but you can go some amazing places. When the trip was all said and done,
I was excited and happy about the climb and the experience. It was great to look back and reflect on the experience, I realized
that there is no way that I could have physically or mentally been able to do this climb a few months ago (prior to mtn athlete).
Thank you for all that you've done for me in the past 2 months. I have truly seen a tremendous change in my athletic
ability inside and outside the gym. I realize I have much to improve on and I know that I struggle with the mental aspect
of it all, but thanks for your encouragement and persistence to make me a better athlete. Climbing has been my main focus
and source of entertainment. In the past few months the transition of my strength to weight ratio has changed tremendously,
in result my climbing ability has improved considerably which I couldn't be more excited about. Gaining strength and mental
toughness has allowed me in the past month to increase my climbing grades, start lead climbing and climbing mountains.
Thanks for everything you've done for me, and your dedication to making others better athletes.
Trish
ROB'S ANSWER/COMMENTS:
Trish was a collegiate rower and one of my strongest female athletes. She crushes me in the climbing gym.
I know I couldn't do the leading she describes above, and certainly would have had to talk to my Mommy after a big fall.
Good for you, Trish
- Rob
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| Mattie, Trish, Tina |
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