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"WANTING MOMMY"
Objective: Strength Endurance
Warm up: 5 Rounds
2x Frenchies
Training:
(1) Team Workout (2 members on each team)
Team 1: 20x V1 or V0 bouldering problems, fast as
possible. Choose juggy problems, with big
overhangs requiring lots of power and pulling.
Team 2: Laps on traverse wall until Team 1 done,
then switch places
(2) Team Workout (2 Members each team)
Team 1: 10x V1 or V0 bouldering problems, fast as
possible. Choose juggy problems, with big
overhangs requiring lots of power and pulling.
Team 2: Laps on traverse wall until Team 1 done,
then switch places
(3) 10 Rounds, 3:1 work to rest ratio
Climb up auto belay, climb down, then up again, without
rest. Each round has 40 hand movements, and takes
approximately 3 minutes.
Rest 1 minute.
Comments:
Once again at the climbing gym today, the women crushed me. Tina and tiny Libby managed to claw their way up, down, and
up again the damn climbing wall 10 times each, almost without grip failure, while I started failing on my second lap.
I can usually keep up with my female athletes on the short, intense bouldering problems, but they quickly lead me in the
dust when we move to the climbing walls. Why?
Technique is the most obvious answer, but perhaps not the right one.
In our training at the rock gym, I chose climbing routes which are designed to train grip strength and endurance, not
climbing technique. These are all non-technical, often with slight overhangs, which are very easy when rested, but add a backpack
with weight, or force an athlete to do laps without rest, and their difficulty increases dramatically.
If not technique, then these athletes are obviously stronger than me. But why?
The answer? Volume. They've both been climbing a lot longer, and simply have thousands more hand moves both in the climbing
gym and on actual rock, then I.
The cumulative volume component of strength is something I've never read about in a study, but have come to understand
through my own experience and training.
"Volume" is an training attribute regularly discussed in endurance sports. Elite Biking, for example, requires
thousands of hours in the saddle not only for physical training effects, but also to simply "learn" the finer aspects
of peddling.
I see this volume effect often in my weight room. Most of my male athletes are bigger than I, and recently, more than
a few have surpassed my maximum strength personal records.
But when it comes to doing high rep dead lifts, Curtis Ps, or power clean density training, often I'll use barbells heavier
than theirs. Why? - when I'm not as "strong?"
My answer, and I could be way off here, is volume. Over my 25 years spent in weight rooms, I've lifted thousands of tons
of weight, and all that lifting has built me a "strength base" similar to the aerobic base idea. While I may not
be as "strong" as several of my male athletes at the 1 rep max level, my strength base is still higher, and it
provides me with a greater weightroom work capacity, especially for longer efforts.
If Tina, Libby and I were to be tested for our 1-rep max grip strength, I'd probably win handily. But their greater climbing
experience, and all that volume of gripping rocks and holds its built upon, provides them with a much greater "grip strength
base" which comes into play during longer efforts.
Then again, this theory could be totally invalid and pulled out of my you-know-what, and I could just be a climbing sissy.
Yeah, that's probably it ...
- Rob Shaul
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| Tina crushes another workout. She crushes Rob in the rock gym. |
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| Stephen brings the same intensity to the gym that makes him a world class climber on the mountain. |
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| Mark buids core strength old-school style. |
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