"STINKY MELLON"

Type: Endurance, Sport Specific Power/Strength

Training:

(1) Run 45 minutes, at 180 steps per minute, 80% MHR.

Change Modes to Rock Gym

(1) 3 strict Pull ups, every 20 sec. for 10 Rounds

(2) 3 Rounds
10x Laps on a Bouldering Problem, 1 lap every 1 minute
Rest 3 minutes between rounds

(3) 10 Rounds
1:1 Lap intervals on Climbing Wall auto-belay, carrying weighted pack. Adjust weight to fail between 20-30 movements.

Comments:

My work on running form continues. I'm currently reading "The Triathlete Guide to Run Training," by Ken Mierke. Mierke advocates "Evolution Running" which seems really similar to "Chi Running" - high turnover, 180 steps per minute, lean forward, don't bounce.

The high turnover takes some getting used to. I searched online for a metronome - and was able to load my ipod with a 90 bpm, four-minute long "beat," which I set on "repeat."

The running experts say 180 steps per minute is optimal, so I tried to strike one of my feet with each beat. At first, I couldn't keep up, but 10 minute into the run, was able to match the turnover rate.

I honestly have no idea how fast I was running - it seemed I was shuffling along - but my heart rate was pegged around 150-155 bpm (80% MHR) without me giving it any attention at all.

The run went fast - I got in around 5.25 miles. My forward lean needs work - but 7 hours later, neither my ankles or knees ache.

At the rock gym I met three of my athletes, Kim, Tina and Stephen. I used overhanging, V1 bouldering problems with big jug holds, but at the end of the final round, couldn't complete the lap. The three problems I worked (10 laps each) all involved plenty of power moves.

Rock Climbing gurus write about doing 30 bouldering problems "as fast as possible," but I felt this would lead to long rests.

Using the density training principal - start a new lap every minute on the minute - worked well. We were all worked before moving to the auto belays for strength training.

Here Tina embarrassed me. We each carried a 25# pack, and on the first 5 rounds, she was able to achieve 5-8 more hand movements than I before failure.

Eric Horst writes that when training strength, chose a load and route which leads to failure at around 20 hand movements.

I loaded Stephen with 45# and still he often went beyond 30 hand movements on big holds before failure. We both were hesitant to load him more - for fear of a hand/finger injury.

Each auto belay had two people - one would rest while the other climbed - so our work/rest ratio was approx. 1:1. A way to increase the intensity, without adding weight, would be to decrease the rest interval.

The rock gym session was long - approx 75 minutes, and by the end were were all seriously pumped. At the grocery store an hour later, I had trouble holding my bag full of groceries.

- Rob

Stephen works one of 30 laps on bouldering problems.