Workout: "DAGWOOD"

Objective: Power

Warm up: 10-9-8-....1
Squat Jump
Push up

Training:

(1) 5 Rounds
5x Sprint Start
5x Goblet Squat @ 32kg
5x Jumping lunge each leg
1 min rest

(2) 5 Rounds
5x Hang Squat Clean @ 125#
5x Push Press @ 125#
5x Box jump @ 24"
1 min rest

(3) 5 Rounds
5x Split Squat
3x Sandbag clean & squat
5x Jingle Jangle
1 min rest

(4) 5 Rounds
5x Bench Press
5x Dip
5x Plyo pushup
1 min rest

Workout: "FOX NEWS CHANNEL"

Objective: Sport Specific Power Endurance

Warm up: 20x finger extensions each hand
1-6 horizontal row pyramid
1-6 pull up pyramid

Workout:

(1) 10 Rounds
1x Climbing gym up and down climb on auto belay
Each round = approx 40 hand movements
90 sec. Rest (1:1 work, rest interval)
400 hand movements total

(2) 3 Rounds
10x horizontal lock off each arm

Comments:

The goal of "Dagwood" is to get the athlete tired, then make him or her do something fast. Take the full one minute rest between rounds. You'll be surprised how this adds up.

Some exercise explanation: A "split squat" = holding two kettlebells, splitting legs into a lunge position, tapping down back knee, and raising back up to split position without moving feet.

Sandbag Clean & Squat - clean the bag from the ground to your shoulder, then do a full squat. 3x each shoulder. Clean from ground each time.

Jingle Jangle - Set up two cones 5-7 yards apart. Sprint between them. 1 sprint equals 1 jingle jangle. Touch the ground at each cone, and immediately sprint back - the change of direction will hammer your legs.

"FOX NEWS CHANNEL" is a further evolution of our ongoing sport-specific climbing training. My interest here is strength & conditioning - not technique. I've read all I can on the training for climbing, and have not been impressed.

Finally, I came upon a training column written by Andy Raether, who described a routine focused on power endurance and power. What was unique about Raether's approach was the way he quantified volume. He used hand movements. One of Andy's power endurance workouts involved 600 total hand movements, split into four sections of 150 each. Within each section, he would do 40 hand movements, then take a 20 second rest, then continue. He's not finger training here - his holds are big, and he employed only concentric movements.

Tina Flowers and I employed this general approach using an auto below at the local rock gym and primarily jug holds. We did an interval up and down climb circuit (down climbing uses eccentric training). Tina would climb, and I would rest - then we'd switch. Our work to rest ratio was 1:1 - the rest being significantly longer than Andy's.

We will continue to use and evaluate using hand movements and interval training for power endurance volume calculations as the climbing season approaches. I'll report our results here.

- Rob Shaul

Renae builds power.

Split squat.